In Pursuit of Elegance

 In Pursuit of Elegance: Why the Best Ideas Have Something Missing the best-selling book by Matthew E. May is one of the best I've read all year.  Thought provoking and insightful, he analyzes the principles of the mystifying quality of elegance- in companies, products, markets, art, nature, interactions and people.

We are captured by elegance- in a person, a painting, a symphony, in nature, in a building, in a math equation

and drawn to it with a magnetic pull because, I believe, some part of us recognizes the profound simplicity within the extraordinary complexity,

and we are seduced by the subtlety in that restraint.

Guy Kawasaki, former creative dynamo at Apple, says elegance "is a thoughtful, artful, subtractive process, focused on doing more and better with less."

Matthew May writes that the power of elegance comes from achieving "maximum effect with minimum input."

We knew this of course.  But it helps to be reminded during these crazy financial times, in a world where more seems to never be enough, that elegance is possible while consuming fewer resources.

  

According to Mr. May, the four essential components of elegance are:  

1.  Symmetry

2.  Subtraction

3.  Seduction

4.  Sustainability  

I love his discussion of symmetry and fractals, nature's symmetric patterns, and will talk more about that later.  Guy Kawasaki (who writes the Forward for the book) notes in an interview that "adding and acting" are the great enemies of elegance, and the notion of subtraction goes against our hardwired drive to "push, collect, hoard, store, and consume."  We are such natural-born adders that we're bewitched by voluntary restraint.

When Coco Chanel said "Elegance is refusal," she wasn't suggesting saying "No" to everything and everyone, she was talking about the principle of subtraction.  As one develops elegance one learns the keys to subtraction--knowing what to eliminate, and then how to go about it.

  

The component that really piqued my interest however, was Sustainability.  To be elegant, a thing must be repeatable and lasting.  I thought of George Clooney, an actor who is well-known for elegance on and off the screen.  In order to develop a reputation for elegance, it isn't enough to behave like a gentleman or lady occasionally, it must be a habit of one's day to day existence.  

I have heard for example, that for designer and legendary gentleman Tom Ford, politeness is as natural as breathing.

Jason Gay writes in the Wall Street Journal magazine that, "one of the first things people notice about Tom Ford is his politeness —what his friend, the actress Rita Wilson, calls his 'extremely good manners'; the way a simple act like a handshake or opening a door becomes a suave, elegant gesture, a throwback to another era. Little things, perhaps, but little things matter in the world of Tom Ford, a man of refinement and control, always dressed as if he's about to be photographed, even when he doesn't want to be photographed."

He goes on to write that artist Lisa Eisner recalls picking Mr. Ford up to see a movie and he was dressed in one of his suits.  "'He is not going to wear cargo shorts,' Eisner says. 'He is always going to look impeccable, no matter where you catch him.'"  Read the article here.

It is said that beauty is truth and truth, beauty.  Elegance is uplifting and authentic, and only happens when conditions are natural and pure.  When our manners with loved ones in the presence of other people are equally gracious in private.   When our habits are graceful, even when we're alone and there's no one looking.  When there is no difference between our best behavior and our normal behavior.  

As I was driving yesterday I played a word association game with myself.  I thought of someone I know, and then the first word that came to mind to describe them.  A friend called and I told her that her name came up.  

"What was my word, she asked?"

"Class.  You are without a doubt, the classiest person I know.  I have never known you to behave without kindness, and you always, always go the extra mile.  You surprise and delight everyone who knows you with your thoughtfulness in big and small ways."  

She thanked me for saying so, and told me that it meant a lot to her because it is the character trait that she most values in herself.  I asked if she had been that way from birth, or if she had learned it somewhere along the way.  She related that she grew up quite poor and her childhood had been very hard, but at about the age of 10, she was "adopted" by a woman and her extended family who did not have money, but who were always incredibly gracious, charming, kind and, "I don't know how else to describe it," she said, "besides genteel.  That is when I decided I wanted to be just like them.  I wanted to live my life in a way that was refined, dignified and kind."

When I told her about the book I had just read she said, "I don't know if I am elegant, but I made up my mind a long time ago to try and develop the characteristics of it."

I love that, and can't wait to hear your thoughts.  

Find the book below.  One caveat worth mentioning, this is a fairly intellectual exploration of a complex concept, not a style manual.  So keep that in mind.

Images:  1.  Chateau de Boury via Pinterest  2.  Alice Vanderbuilt Sheppard by John Singer Sargent 3. Andrew Skurman Architects- San Francisco and Paris  4.  Carolina Herrera  5.  Tiffany & Co. Arts and Crafts sterling creamer with jade accented handle  6.  In the Northern Wilderness by Ivan Shishkin, 1891.  7.  Audrey Hepburn  8.  Peony, via Pinterest  9. George Clooney 10. Tom Ford photographed for the Wall Street journal by Sølve Sundsbø.  11. Wave via Pinterest 12.  The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge via Pinterest.




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Christmas Past

               

Big Celebrities

I was looking for that old EDS commercial "Herding Cats," for a friend, and in the process, stumbled upon some interesting footage of Robin Wiltshire, the Australian-born animal trainer behind those amazing Budweiser Clydesdale commercials.  I always thought that funny feats the Clydesdales perform in the ads were done with computer graphics.  Not so.





The horses, the punt, the streaking sheep- all real, and all trained by Robin.






Robin trains the horses at Turtle Ranch, his Wyoming home, and shoots the commercials on location.  In this ad, the cowboy on the right is a local veterinarian in real life.






A great clip of Robin training some of the tricks.  I think the most endearing thing about the Budweiser Clydesdale commercials is that the animals appear to be having fun.  Here you can see why.






For "The Snowball Fight" the horses practiced the tricks with basketballs.  To see how he trained these tricks, click here.






Above, an interesting interview with Robin Wiltshire from RFD-TV where he talks more about what it's like working with the animals.

To learn more about Robin Wiltshire, and see more of his funny Clydesdale Superbowl ads, like "Born a Donkey," visit his Turtle Ranch website, here.






And for my friend, here's "Herding Cats," also a classic.

If the boot fits...

Vogue 2009 via

Equestrian dressing in the country never goes out of style.  Everywhere else, it cycles as a fashion trend on a regular basis, probably because riding clothes are comfortable and utilitarian while giving the wearer a patrician aspect and a certain swashbuckling, outdoorsy sexiness all at the same time.

Grace Kelly in Central Park via

The trick to pulling off this look while you browse antique stores or sip a latte with the Sunday crossword at a sidewalk cafe, is knowing something of the origins of the gear and staying authentic.  Of course, you can always break the rules, but that's way more fun to do if you know what they are first.

For example, if you're wearing this snazzy boot while you ramble around the farmer's market, don't be surprised if someone asks whether you play polo.

Want to see the boots in action?  Click above.

Captain George K.H. Cousmaker, 1782
by Sir Joshua Reynolds

There are generally two types of tall boots worn by riders in English disciplines, the field boot, and the dress boot, and they haven't changed much in hundreds of years.  Non-riders rarely consider this, but one can buy beautiful authentic riding boots which are reasonably priced and better quality than typical fashion boots at any tack store that sells English riding gear.  No horse required.

Alexander I of Russia, 1837
 by Franz Kruger

Tall boots are made from cowhide, calf, or pigskin and their purpose is to prevent the rider's leg from being pinched or rubbed by the saddle and stirrup leathers, and to give some protection from brush and brambles.

The boot has a roomy, firm toe box to protect the rider's foot when on the ground, and a low heel to help prevent the rider's foot from sliding through the stirrup (and the rider possibly being dragged) should she unintentionally dismount.

Boot hooks

Both types of boot usually have a spur rest to support the spur, and these days are available with a zipper that runs down the back of the calf to make them easy to put on without the aid of boot hooks.

Important note:  Authentic riding boots do not have zippers on the inside of the leg.  If you want to appear horsey, this is a dead giveaway.

The topline of riding boots has morphed periodically through history.  The popular "Spanish" topline is cut higher on the outside of the boot to elongate the appearance of the rider's leg when seated in the saddle, while still allowing his or her knee to bend comfortably.

To get a long, elegant look with breeches, leggings, jeans or skirts without the annoyance of having your boot poke you in the back of the knee when you sit down, measure from the bottom of your heel to the crook of your knee when seated in a chair, then add about an inch.  That number is the height of boot that will likely be most comfortable for you.  That extra inch is added because most boots will drop a bit as they break in.   The sales associates at your local tack shop can usually help you with the specific break-in characteristics of your chosen style and brand.

While you're at it, measure around the fullest part of your calf.  Boot length and calf width can vary considerably between manufacturers, and even between models by the same manufacturer.  Shops that sell riding boots usually have a chart for the various brands and models to help you select the most comfortable boot length and calf width.

Field boots with a high Spanish topline, lacing, toe caps,
stitched down outside leather tabs, rear zippers and spur rests

Field boots have lacing at the ankle to allow the rider to be more comfortable riding with the highly flexed ankle and shorter stirrup length required for riding over fences.

Field boots are generally tied with a straight bar lacing so they can be cut easily with a knife if necessary.  The shoelace ties at the center, or the ends are tucked in.

Brown field boot, plain toe, inner tabs, straight bar lacing

Field boots are preferred in most jumping disciplines, but are not considered correct for dressage or formal fox hunting meets.  They have inner or outer leather tabs, and sometimes an extra layer of leather over the toe, called a toe cap.

It is acceptable for field boots to slouch a bit around the ankle.  Black boots are standard.  Brown boots are correct for schooling or less formal "cubbing" meets.

Dress boots with moderate Spanish topline, spur rests and rear zippers

Dress boots are plain black without a toe cap.  They do not have ankle lacing and should not slouch.  To this end, dress boots may be either kid glove thin and form-fittingly sleek, or they may be firm or lined leather constructed with boning or stiffening in the ankles.  They are worn by dressage riders, eventers in the dressage phase of their tests, for everyday schooling and training, and by both men and women for formal fox hunts (unless the rider is wearing scarlet, or a frock coat in which case see the boots with "cuffs" below).

There are a few equestrian boot traditions that either originated or perpetuated through the sport of fox hunting.

Start of a fox hunt at Downton Abbey via

I don't want to get too off-topic, but for Downton Abbey fans, Jane Asten's World at www.janeaustensworld.wordpress.com, has an interesting, balanced, and fairly comprehensive post on the history, traditions, attire, etc. of fox hunting here.  

Lady Mary at Downton Abbey via

Men's dress boots with brown cuffed hunt tops and outer tabs

Black dress boots with brown cuffs are traditionally worn at a formal hunt by male members of the club who have been awarded their "Colors," and in modern times, a female Master or Huntsman.  Colors are considered an honor, awarded by the Master of Foxhounds (MFH) at his discretion.  For long-standing members of a hunt, wearing Colors means one has earned the privilege of wearing the club's color on one's jacket collar, club insignia on one's buttons, and certain other attire.

Ladies of the hunt who have been awarded Colors wear black dress boots with black patent leather cuffs.  The wearing of cuffed boots is a tradition still known and actively practiced in the countryside, so do be aware of that when choosing riding boots for non-hunting wear.

Must Reads:

                 

Images: 1. Vogue, 2009 via mermaidinmadras 2.  via Mermaidinmadras 3. Dehner 4.  Metropolitan Museum of Art, 5. Hermitage Museum 6. Cavenders 7-8. Vogel 9. Fieggen 10. Dehner 11. Ariat 12. Powderham Castle, Devon 13-14. Downton Abbey via janeaustensworld.wordpress.com 15-16. Dehner

Black and White

Valentino Couture

Bobby Flay's Malted Black and White Milkshake

Ingredients

2 pints good-quality vanilla ice cream, slightly softened (recommended: Haagen-Dazs)

3 to 4 tablespoons malt powder

1 cup good chocolate sauce, divided

Whipped cream, for garnish

Shaved bittersweet chocolate, for garnish

Directions

Place 1 1/2 pints of ice cream, malt powder, and 1/2 cup of the chocolate sauce in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour shakes into 2 tall glasses, leaving a little room at the top. Place an extra scoop of ice cream on top of each shake and drizzle the remaining 2 ounces chocolate sauce over the top. Garnish with a large dollop of whipped cream and some chocolate shavings. Serve immediately.

Happy Tuesday!

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